Just an hour north of Seoul by train lies the border between North and South Korea. I recently took a short day trip to explore this area.
DMZ
The Korean War, which began in 1950 between North and South Korea, has never officially ended. For over 75 years, an armistice has been in place, and the border between North and South Korea has been set at the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). The DMZ is a military buffer zone, established by the armistice agreement, designed to prevent direct contact between the two countries’ military forces. It spans approximately 4 kilometers in width and 250 kilometers in length, creating a high-tension area that is perpetually on alert. Foreign visitors can explore parts of the DMZ through organized tours.
Dora Observatory: A Glimpse into North Korea
On the South Korean side, an observatory on a hill offers a view into North Korea, including the industrial city of Kaesong. The observatory is equipped with binoculars, allowing visitors to catch a glimpse of daily life in North Korea. To the east, one can see Panmunjom, the Joint Security Area visited by President Trump in 2019. However, since an incident in 2023 where an American visitor crossed the boundary line into North Korea seeking asylum, Panmunjom has been closed to the public. During my 2024 visit, I was informed there were no plans for it to reopen soon, but I would love to return if it does.
On the North Korean side to the east, there is a “propaganda village” with impressive buildings that are uninhabited. Meanwhile, in the western rural area, North Korean farmers can be seen working in the fields. On clear days, you can spot jamming towers that prevent North Koreans from receiving South Korean radio signals, as well as a massive bronze statue of Supreme Leader Kim Jong-un atop Mount Kumgang.
View Through the Binoculars: A Snapshot
Looking through binoculars, you can spot:
Flagpoles: South and North Korea engaged in a rivalry over flagpole height, with North Korea’s flag visible here.
Former Inter-Korean Liaison Office: Once a shared building for North and South Korean officials, North Korea unilaterally issued a warning and blew up the building in 2020, leaving broken windows visible from afar.
Freedom Village (Panmunjom)
The “Freedom Village” within the DMZ is the only civilian residential area allowed here. Residents live a lifestyle similar to any rural South Korean village, but surrounded by military installations, creating a unique environment.
Ginseng and Soybean Farms
The region’s main crops are Korean ginseng and soybeans, and the South Korean government incentivizes residents to live here. Due to favorable tax breaks, many local ginseng and soybean farmers have become quite wealthy.
Freedom Bridge
The Freedom Bridge was used to exchange prisoners of war after the Korean War. In 1953, when the armistice was signed, POWs crossed this bridge heading south in search of “freedom,” hence the name. The bridge, about 83 meters in length, is now partially blocked off, but beyond the barrier lies a view of North Korea.
Visitors often leave messages on the bridge, hoping for peace.
North Korean Currency
North Korea uses the won, similar in name to the South Korean currency, though it is far less valuable, as North Korea is one of the world’s poorest countries. Due to the lack of movement between the two Koreas, North Korean currency doesn’t circulate in South Korea. However, Chinese traders buy it from North Korea to sell to tourists, providing North Korea with a rare source of foreign currency.
The Statue of the Young Girl
In several places around South Korea, you may come across statues of young girls symbolizing peace. Strangely, one of these statues also sits at the Freedom Bridge, and visitors are welcome to sit beside it for a commemorative photo.
Location: Paju City, South Korea
I joined a tour from Seoul to visit the DMZ, which takes around half a day to a full day. Only foreign nationals can participate, as South Korean citizens are not allowed on these tours, and a passport is required.
